Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Un sole, un sole.....

' The Sun Gate'

This kid stood in the way so you 'had' to take a photo then hit you up for a $.

The cutest little voices whisper to you. We're on the Isla Taquille in Lago Titicaca and it's beautiful. We've followed the Guide Book's recommendation and caught the slower, cheaper local boat out to the island and are staying the night. This place is so tranquil and the people so friendly. The children, still trying to sell you their little wristbands, are so sweet and gentle that you can't help but give in and buy one. It makes for such a pleasant change from the mainland.
These guys live in a kind of communist state. There is one community restaurant on the island, but they also take it turns on a week by week basis as to which restaurants are open for the day trippers. We met a local lad who spoke very good English and who is trying to promote healthy tourism to the island. We stayed at his family's home where we were also fed. There are no hotels as such and this way the money goes directly to the Islanders rather than any tourist company based in Puno.

We travelled by a small boat, stopping at the floating reed islands for 20 minutes. This was more than long enough. The rumours that they are very touristy was an understatement. And I think we faired much better than the actual tourist boats. It was kind of weird walking on the reeds though, so I shouldn't be too damning.

So when the day trippers arrive, they have a very steep, 500 step climb to get to the Sun gate, before making their way down to the main square. The guide book says it's a 20 minute climb. I doubt it. Fortunately we landed at another port and although steep, it wasn't half as bad a climb to the township. And the best part was, we had our local man giving us a running commentry about the history and lives of the locals all the way to a restaurant that served the most delicious fish. It also had the most amazing views.

After a delicious lunch of soup and fish, we drop our bags off and go for a wander around the norhtern part of the island. Unfortunately it turns cold and the storms that we had been watching off in the distance start to move in so we head back to our abode and have an afternoon nap before dinner. It's a hard life.

The view was amazing


The next morning we took a stroll (or an out of breathe climb more like it) to the beautiful beach at the southern tip of the island. It was too cold to go in past our ankles but like a couple of nonces we did some pilate stretches. It was one of those mornings where you're glad to be alive in mind so we wanted our unfit bodies to feel the same. Mike did well and after half an hour of trying, all the time stating he has never been able to touch his toes (he does have very long legs), he managed to reach them. I have photographic evidence, but I'll spare you the image as he is not fully clothed. I even think he gave the fisherman who turned up not long after we arrived, a bit of a fright.

Lunch was at our 'favourite' restaurant where we got an idea of what the day trippers were like. But how the five obese Americans who were sitting at the next table ever made it up the stairs from the dock without having heart attacks will remain one of life's great mysteries.

It was sad to leave that little bit of paradise, and once again my recommendation to anyone in the area would be to stay overnight and avoid the tourists boats. If nothing else but to avoid the horrible pan pipe versions of bad 80's music the local seem obliged to play.

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