Surfing with sardines

I took the evening cargo ferry to Baja and had the delightful pleasure of spending 16 hours trying to avoid any attention, got to love the iPod. Once again I'm the only female stupid enough to travel by myself in Mexico, fun when you're on a boat with about 50 truck drivers who all wanted to know where I was from, what I was doing and where was my boyfriend. I needed the answers recorded so that I could play back every time I was asked.
I love it when you've pulled up somewhere, or you've just ridden the bike onto the boat, in full view of everyone, and they ask 'Is that your bike?', 'Si', 'Do you ride it yourself?'. This is where I'm really tempted to respond, 'Well actually, I've been carrying it around in my backpack for 7 months, I only rode it onto the boat to show off' or something to that effect. Of course I bloody well ride it, how else to you think it got here!

Hiding on the top deck of the ferry.

Anyways, I digress from telling you about a fantastic fours days I've just had.
After a tediously hot ride down to Cabo San Lucas, I got the hell out of there after only an hour. What a horrendous place. Wall to wall resort hotels line the beach front so I was unable to find a path to the beach, even the cheap food is expensive and of course, it's full of rich Americans on Memorial Weekend holiday. (Please excuse the fact that my usual occupation is designing these resorts for these rich Americans, I cringe every time I think about it).
I read the guide book and based on its out of date information, I head uo to Todos Santos. Todos Santos is supposed to have beach camping, and according to the guide book, it's supposed to have a beach. It has neither. I turn back for 10km (the guide book tells me it's only 4km, but hey, who am I to argue!) and head down a slippery, sandy track to Playa San Pedrito. There is also supposed to be a camping ground here with nice showers of which I'm much in need of after the ferry trip. Imagine my suprise when all I find is a deserted beach, the remnants of a hotel, the remnants of and RV park and one lone RV truck parked at the end of the beach. It's late and the RV is from Oregon. I approach with caution. The owner turns out to be a local who has been there for 25 years. I pitch the tent then Jo invites me back into town for a beer at the bar where his son works. On the way back into town, I'm informed that there used to be a great little set up at San Pedrito, until it got washed away in Hurricane Katrina. That would explain it.
The next morning, Jo takes me into town to a hotel/RV park that he owns. I get my much needed washing and that very nice hot shower sorted. After a guided tour of the town, I'm then driven down to Cerritos. Ah, heaven.
Jo knows Tav, the guy who runs the surf shop, so I get half price board and wetsuit rental and line up that night's new camp spot. The seller for me as that there are two girls already pitched up by the surf shop, so some female company. Wa hey! That evening it's camp food of pasta and tinned sardines with beers around a campfire. The two girls, Brigette and Carolyn are a really sweet couple from near Seattle. They have been cycling down Baja for a month already. It was great to have their company but after supplying them with fresh coffee and drinking water in the morning, we have to say goodbye.
Surf day 1. Tav points me in the direction of some beginner waves. I'm not entirely convinced about his choice and I spend the morning not doing so well. The current is very strong and after almost two hours, I've managed to catch and surf only two white water waves. Doh! The afternoon I relocate. I start talking to some kindly surfer locals, getting their tips and advice on which bit of white water is the best for a beginner. I do better.

Home for a few days.

That evening a bunch of Aussies arrive. They've come for the surfing and although they we're only going to stay for a few hours, they start drinking. They pitch up next to us (Tav is permanently pitched up by his shop and is more than happy for travellers to stop by and free camp for the night as long as you don't leave your cigarette butts in the sand. Also, you usually get roped into cooking his dinner for him).
Just in time for a sunset surf, Torsten is next to arrive. He has ridden down from New Mexico on his BMW GS1100. He is an engineer of sorts and has rigged up a very clever rack for his surf board. Its quite a party around the campfire.
Surf Day 2. I pack up early, I´ve quite a few miles to cover. The Aussies leave early also, they´re heading the same direction. Alas I decide to go for a quick swim to cool off before heading. That´s when Tav tempts me with free board and wetsuit hire for the day. He must like my camp food cooking. Torsten decides to stick around for another day also. The surf is easier and I frollick for hours, getting a sunburnt nose and forehead. I do ask, but I´m yet to find the trick to stop getting a sunburnt face whilst surfing.

Surfer chick!

After I´ve cooked the lads some quesadillas for lunch, Torsten heads out to the back waves, those ones that are way out and huge. Tav and I are watching from the beach. It seems that he is so far out that there is no surf. Eventually he disappears. After a bit longer sun bathing and still no sign of Torsten, I go for a walk to the point to see if he´s around there. I find him, hands and feet shredded from the rocks. He´d got caught in a current and with a dodgy shoulder was unable to paddle back in. I get him and board back to the shop for some first aid.
Penny, a cute boxer pup joins us. She´s just been to the vet and is very poorly. I think she is in need of some female company as she sidles up next to me for some TLC. About 10 minutes later, another injured surfer comes to join us. This one with a bloodied nose. It turns into a right little sick bay. Honestly though, we were having a great time, except for me worrying about Penny.
Not perturbed by the afore mentioned injuries, I get back in the water. By this time, there is a weird thing going on in the white water. Thousands and thousands of sardines are swimming in the channel. As the current is so strong, you kind of have to wade through rather than swim through the surf. So you get these little fish running into your legs. You tread on them. And they jump up and land on your board. It´s a little freaky but I´m getting better with things like that and manage to have the best surf session of my life. I actually catch a few real waves. I´ll make a surfer yet.
All you can eat pizza for dinner then it´s off to bed.
Take two for an early start in the morning.